Gebruik je tot nu toe alleen een spanningszoeker voor de elektrische klusjes aan je oldtimer? In veel gevallen een uitstekend hulpmiddel, maar nogal beperkt qua mogelijkheden. In de gereedschapskist mag een goede multimeter niet ontbreken. Hoewel een multimeter er op het eerste gezicht nogal ingewikkeld uitziet hoef je heus geen elektricien te zijn om er mee te kunnen werken. Met een korte handleiding helpen we je graag op weg:
Schakel het apparaat naar het Volt gelijkstroombereik. Dit wordt aangegeven door de grote V en het DC-symbool. Het wisselstroombereik, (gemarkeerd door een sinuslijn) is bedoeld voor huishoudelijk gebruik. De multimeter heeft verschillende meetbereiken, voor de 6V en 12V auto-ectronica is het zinvol om deze in te stellen op 20 volt. Zo kun je bijvoorbeeld meten of de accu echt vol is (ongeveer 13 volt), of de laadspanning voldoende is, of zelfs te hoog (maximaal 14,7 volt), of er voldoende spanning aankomt op terminal 15 van de bobine (ongeveer 13 volt, met serieweerstand iets minder). Kortom: De voltmeter geeft aan of de volle accuspanning werkelijk alle bestemmingen bereikt. De spanning wordt verminderd door weerstanden in gedeeltelijk gebroken kabels of op gecorrodeerde en losse stekkerverbindingen.
Schakel het apparaat over naar het Ohm-gebied, dat wordt aangegeven met het Omega symbool. In deze stand meet de multimeter de elektrische weerstand tussen de meetstiften. Als de stiften elkaar raken moet dhet display op nul staan; er is nu immers geen of vrijwel geen weerstand. Als de tips van elkaar zijn gescheiden, verschijnt er een 1 op het display, die een oneindig hoge (volle) weerstand symboliseert. Zo kun je bijvoorbeeld de weerstand van de bougiekabels opmeten. Weerstandsmeting wordt vaak toegepast bij het testen van kabelverbindingen. Door de multimeter aan te sluiten aan weerszijde van de kabel wordt de weerstand gemeten. Ligt deze dicht bij 0 dan is de verbinding in orde. Op dezelfde manier kunnen gewikkelde spoelen van bijvoorbeeld startmotoren en dynamo's gemeten worden.
Om stroom te meten moet het apparaat worden omgeschakeld naar het ampèrebereik, aangegeven met de hoofdletter A. Het stroomsterktebereik is het stroombereik van het apparaat. Hier meet je niet alleen of er stroom is, maar ook hoeveel. Ideaal om bijvoorbeeld te achterhalen of een stille stroomverbruiker 's nachts de accu leegslurpt. Om dit te meten koppel je één van de twee accupolen los en sluit je de multimeter aan tussen deze pool en de accuklem. Verder meten kan in de zekeringenkast, om zo het verbruik terug te filteren tot een bepaald circuit.
Tot nu toe beperkten we ons tot metingen aan de positieve kant van het stroomcircuit. In de praktijk kan het probleem ook echter aan de negatieve kant liggen, bijvoorbeeld door roestige massaverbindingen of wanneer de massa bij een vers gespoten gerestaureerde auto onvoldoende is schoongemaakt. Controleer de massakabels dus grondig en maak deze goed schoon. Een lik vaseline voorkomt dat ze verder worden aangetast door corrosie.
Heb je nog geen multimeter? Let er dan bij de aanschaf op dat je apparaat een meetbereik heeft dat oploopt tot tenminste 10A. Bij lichtere apparaten zal de zekering anders snel doorbranden.
Af fabriek werd de Triumph TR6 geleverd met de kenmerkende Michelin Redline banden. Hoewel we ze soms nog tegenkomen op ongerestaureerde auto's zijn deze banden niet meer leverbaar. Bovendien is de opgegeven maatvoering van 185R15 niet meer van toepassing op moderne autobanden. Welke banden passen dan het beste op de TR6?
Velgmaat Triumph TR6
De Triumph TR6 staat op 15 inch stalen wielen met een breedte van 5,5 inch. Fabrieksoriginele banden hadden een hoogtemaat van 70 of 80, wat betekent dat ze een hoogte hebben van 70 of 80% van de bandbreedte (185). De buitendiameter van de Redline banden bedraagt 26,6 inch.
Sommige mensen kiezen ervoor om hun TR6 uit te rusten met iets bredere banden. 205/70/R15 is een populaire upgrade, die past op de originele wielen. Dit geeft de TR6 een stoere, sportieve uitstraling. Er is echter een risico dat de banden bij maximale stuuruitslag of veeruitslag in contact komen met de auto. Aanpassingen zijn dan vereist, zoals het monteren van spoorverbreders. Let er ook op dat deze bandenmaat erg populair is voor bestelwagens en campers, met een hogere laadindex en stuggere wang. Kies dus niet zomaar een band, maar laat u goed adviseren of doe zelf de nodige research.
Standaard Triumph TR6 bandenmaat
Onze voorkeur gaat uit naar 185/75/15. Hiervoor zijn goede klassiekerbanden in de handel, met een mooier passend profiel. Ook 195/75/15 is een goede optie.
The title of this post is a bit provocative. A Jaguar E-type is by no means a 'poor man's' car. On the contrary. The 'E' is a true legend, one of the most iconic classic sports cars and a valuable collector car. As a thought experiment, let's try to compare it to the most valuable car in the market: Ferrari's 250 GTO. Both these cars were introduced in the early 1960's and had a significant impact on sports car design. One car might even have inspired the creation of the other.
While unfortunately I have never had the chance to drive a GTO (nor will I probably ever), I have first hand experience with 6 and 12 cilinder E-types. I am also a bit biased, both as an E-type owner and as a Ferrari aficionado. For the sake of a rational thought experiment, I attempted to compare the two on a couple of factors: styling, performance, value and motorsport laurels.
In 1961, Enzo Ferrari called the E-type the most beautiful car ever made. That was before he crafted the GTO and the 275 GTB, the latter of which was clearly inspired by the Jaguar. The E-type had been styled by an aircraft engineer and aerodinamist, Malcolm Sayer. Sayer is known to have been inspired by the Alfa Romeo Disco Volante - a futuristic concept car from 1952. He used mathematical furmulas and an instinctive design approach to come up with an initial concept, further developed by primitive wind tunnel tests. The whole approach was quite revolutionary in the pre-CAD, pre-wind tunnel era.
Before then, Ferrari's designers had never paid much attention to scientific aerodinamics. They simply trusted on the superbly engineered V12 engines. When Enzo first saw the E-type, he probably scratched his head in reflection of his earlier quote:
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines.
It is said that the rumoured arrival of the lightweight E-type racer led to the prioritisation of the 250 GTO project. Ferrari's design team used the university of Pisa's wind tunnel to blend its brilliant engine design with aerodinamic efficiency. The result was a road legal racer that defied competition and raised the bar. It became the first Ferrari with such an emphasis on aerodinamic design.
Nowadays, both these cars are still seen as design icons. The E-type is part of the MoMa's permanent collection, having defined the paradigm of the modern sports car. Both cars are frequently found on various top 10 lists of iconic and legendary automobiles.
Under the Series One E-type's long bonnet lied the 3.8 litre straight six XK engine from the 1950's, tuned to 265 bhp. The gearbox was an old-fashioned 4-speed Moss box. Power was distributed to the D-type's independent rear suspension, that continued to be used in the Jaguar XJS and Aston Martin DB7. Top speed was tested at 241 kph, with 0-100 kph in 6.4 seconds. In standard road trim, the car weighed 1315 kg.
The GTO was powered by a 3 litre V12, essentially the same as in the 250 Testa Rossa. It offered 296 bhp and was linked to a 5-speed gearbox and a solid rear axle. Curb weight was only 880 kg, thanks to a lightweight tube frame and aluminium body work. Top speed was tested at 237 kph (although Ferrari claims it to be 280 kph), with 0-100 in 6 seconds.
Clearly, the GTO beats the standard E-type when it comes to performance. The on-paper comparison does not seem fair, as the GTO was a road-legal homologation model of a thoroughbred racer. Jaguar had its motorsport equivalent: the 1963 lightweight E-type and the 1962 low-drag coupé. The lightweight produced 300-340 bhp, with a 1009 kg curb weight. It would be more than interesting to get these cars together for a direct comparison.
The GTO was built to be raced, both by the Ferrari factory team and in the hands of privateers. The car was not as dominant as some other Ferraris though. It finished second in the 12 hours of Sebring, reached two wins in the Tour de France and won three consecutive FIA touring car championship titles. Although GTO's often met E-types on smaller events and classic car races, they were never direct competitors on the race track.
The E-type was more of a GT tourer than a thoroughbred racer, even though it was inspired by the race-bred C- and D-type. Jaguar's factory team only used the lightweight E-type briefly. The factory team was planning on competing in the 24 hours of Le Mans in 1963, with Peter Lindner as lead driver. A fatal crash at Monthlery halted the Le Mans project, as the car was wrecked beyond repair. After the tragic event, Jaguar's attention shifted to the mid-engined V12 XJ13 racer. The E-type's motorsport career was mostly in the hands of privateers, leading to victories at Silverstone, Goodwood and a class victory in the Sebring 12-hours.
Putting things in simplified perspective, let's say a decent but scruffy driver quality Jaguar E-type can be bought for around US$ 100.000. The latest GTO sale was a spectacular $ 48.405.000, while rumour has it that another one was sold for $ 70.000.000 in a private sale that same year (2018). One GTO therefore has a value of anywhere between 484 - 700 Jaguar E-types. True, it is a silly comparison. Only 36 Ferrari 250 GTO's were ever made, versus almost 79.000 Jaguar E-types. This includes the 12 original lightweight E-types, a car that might be better comparison material to the GTO because of its competition origins. One of these 12 E-types sold for $ 7.370.000 in 2017.
Back when these cars were new, the price difference was a little less significant. At time of introduction, a new E-type sold for $ 5.620, while $ 18.000 plus Enzo Ferrari's personal approval were required to buy a GTO. Oh yes, and both cars could have been bought for very little money, back when there was still not much of a matured classic car market.
Both cars do not qualify as daily drivers, although the dandy and extravagant might consider an E-type for their daily commute. Enjoyment is something with different facets. Some owners only get to enjoy their collector's piece by looking at it while keeping it in a maximum-security man-cave. Others take their wheeled toys to the race track, and cannot be bothered when it gets scratched or dented.
Usability of any of these classics depends on their owner's attitude and budget. A specialty car transporter once told me about the precautions taken to move a GTO a few 100 km's across France. The costs plus insurance premium were enough to take a large chunk out of a tatty E-type's restoration budget. Quite a worrisome white elephant.
The E-type definetely scores points here. It is the more sensible car that can actually be taken out and enjoyed without hours of preparation and increased stress levels. Although if you are able to spend 40+ million on a car, you probably cannot be bothered about such marginalities.
Comparing a street legal race car to a GT sports car is a ridiculous excercise. Both these cars have become icons in their own right. Both are also dream cars, although the dream of owning an E-type can be realised. Even the more hard-headed E-type fans will admit the GTO to be a more spectacular car. However, the Ferrari 250 GTO will simply remain out of reach for non-billionaire enthusiasts, while the E-type falls into a segment that is actually reachable for moderately wealthy and frugal petrol heads. With its sleek lines and excellent performance, it gets close to being a match for the GTO. To me, the Jaguar E-type qualifies as the ultimate 'poor man's Ferrari 250 GTO'.
This white MGB GT was sold by us in the summer of 2018. Being a 1970 model, it had the typical rare split rear bumper set up, exclusively fitted on the MGB in that one model year. This was a good driver quality car, with a few cosmetic flaws. Although it was the new owner's intention to treat the car to a thorough restoration, he first enjoyed the car as a daily driver during the summer months.
When autumn came, it was time to strip the car completely. The naked body was mounted onto a rotisserie before being brought back to us. We were on a mission to get the car completely rust free. Starting by chemically and mechanically stripping paint off vulnerable areas, the car was then degreased and steam cleaned. Ready for the next step: shot blasting.
As expected, we did not unveil a lot of rust damage. Other than the sills and lower front and rear fenders, the MG was still as good as rust free. After shot blasting, the clean metal received 2 coats of epoxy primer. This ensures a high-quality build up, while also keeping moist outside and protecting the metalwork. The owner will now proceed with welding in new sills and repair panels and rebuilding the drive train.
When restoring a car, it is essential to apply a durable paint system. Multiple layers of old paint will often hide rust problems or bad repairs underneath. Due to different chemical substances and levels of flexibility, these old coats often do not interact well with a new paint system. Common medium to long term problems include blistering and cracks, while chemical interaction can lead to lifting or wrinkling during the application process. Starting with clean metal and being precise and thorough in your approach will help the DIY restorer achieve a professional, high-quality result. Dandy Classics can help you start off with a clean canvas for your DIY restoration. We have our own media blasting facility and paint booth.
What to pay attention to when buying a Mercedes 450SL, 280SL, 380SL or 560SL?
The Mercedes-Benz R107 SL-series is nicknamed 'der Pantzerwagen', the tank. Sticking this label on a sporty open two-seater, at the time the most frivolous thing Das Haus had to offer, is telling for its legendary quality. Especially because the letters SL stand for Sport Light. With an empty weight of more than 1500 kilos and a driving behaviour geared towards comfort, the R107 is more of a grand tourer than a real sports car. Introduced in 1971, the car remained in production until the end of the 80s. With a continuous production time of 18 years this is the second longest produced Mercedes of all time. The undisputed number 1 is the G-Class Geländewagen, which is still on the price lists today.
For years, the R107 series was considered to be the unloved child of the Mercedes classic scene. As with so many old prestige class cars, the image of a car is often based on the kinds of people who drive around with it just before the car reaches its lowest point in value. Or rather, the prejudice that sticks to these people. With third generation SL's, these were more often than average moustached men wearing a golden wristwatch, accompanied by a substantial bag of cash and a blonde lady dressed in panther print. Not exactly the types the average god-fearing Mercedes owner wants to associate with. With the passing of time, the R107 SL has fortunately shaken off its moustachian image and the car is now being judged on its merits. One piece of German solidity, wrapped in a chic jacket with a sober elegance. But is the R107 still as indestructible as its legendary image after 40 years? Now that the car has come of age as an emerging classic, we take a closer look at the most popular versions.
Mercedes 350SL and 450SL purchase tips
In recent years, the 450SL has been widely imported from the United States. Americans bought these large eight-cylinder two-seaters in great numbers, despite their substantial new price. In the US, the open Mercedes initially came on the market as 350SL, but the engine was considered to be too light in power. Soon the engine capacity for the American market was increased to 4.5 litres. After a year the type designation was also changed to 450SL. Initially the 350SL could still be ordered with a four-speed manual gearbox, but soon the much more popular automatic transmission became the only available transmission. A V8 SL with manual transmission is very rare and therefore also sought-after by collectors. The 450SL V8 engines are wonderfully smooth, credit to their high torque (286 - 325 Nm).
Mercedes 380SL and 420SL
The 380SL succeeded the 450SL in 1980. For the American market the power was drastically reduced, to about 155 hp and 260 Nm of torque. This makes it the least powerful of the V8 R107 versions and therefore also the least valuable. However, the build quality and reliability improved considerably compared to the previous SL's. So it will be easier to find a good 380SL. In 1985 the 380 was succeeded by the 420SL, with a slightly larger and stronger engine.
Mercedes 560SL and 500SL
Only supplied in the US, Australia and Japan and equipped with a monstrously large 5.6 liter V8. With 227 hp this car is less quick than its displacement suggests. The earliest 450SL's (pre-emission) with 225 hp come very close. The European markets got a slightly smaller top model: the 500SL. With 240 hp and more than 400 Nm of torque, this is the most powerful R107 Mercedes.
Mercedes 280SL and 300SL
The R107 SL with 6 cylinder in-line engine. Lighter and more economical than the V8 versions and not so much slower. These versions were especially popular in European markets. Due to grey imports, a few 280SL's ended up in the US. The latest version of the six cylinder is by far the most popular, not in the least because of the legendary type name: 300SL.
Mercedesses from these years of construction are generally considered indestructible. The youngest 107's have passed the age of 30 and the first versions are approaching the age of 50. So it is logical that the ravages of time can cause a number of problems, even with well maintained examples. Usually these are common age-related problems: leaking gaskets, oil seals and dried out rubber hoses are common, both at high and low mileage. Vehicles with low mileage (longer periods of inactivity) regularly suffer from a clogged injection system. In the worst case this means that the tank must be cleaned, with replacement of hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, new or cleaned injectors and a rebuild of the fuel distributor. Problems are manifested by poor starting, irregular idling and incorrect fuel pressure values. Technical wear and tear parts are not overly expensive, although the elimination of a lot of overdue maintenance can be very costly.
Although less dramatic than many cars from the 70s and 80s, Mercedes SLs, expecially the early versions, can rust heavily. Weak spots are the front fenders above the headlights and on the ribbed underside behind the wheels, sills and the rear fenders on the underside in front of the wheels. Floor panels are other common areas for rust through damage, as are the corners of the boot floor, parts of the chassis beam and crossmembers and the boxed section in the front wheel arches. Repair panels are available in abundance, at reasonable prices. Welding skills and time are a must if you intend to fix a rusty SL.
Many SLs are imported from the sunshine states of the US. Although a dry climate is good for preserving the bodywork, it is often disastrous for the interior. Typical SL ailments are cracked dashboards (for which repair panels are available), dried out and torn seat upholstery and dried out rubbers. Keep this in mind in the purchase budget and determine whether this outweighs the price of a car with an interior in good condition.
Restoring your own Mercedes R107 SL?
Because prices of the R107 have been on the upswing in recent years, it can be interesting for enthusiasts to buy a restoration project. The price difference between project cars and SL's in perfect condition gets bigger every year. If you are not planning to work on a project during weekends and evenings, it is wise to buy the best possible car you can afford, without any cosmetic work or overdue maintenance. When this work has to be outsourced, the costs soon exceed the value of the car, something that does not bother the skilled hobbyist. At Dandy Classics we regularly import Mercedes SL's from the US, both as a restoration project and in a good roadworthy condition. Check out the current offers here.